Next we went to istanbul (but this time we flew). The first thing we noticed here was how friendly everyone was (like the guy we met on the plane who's mother picked him up and gave us a ride into the city), overwhelmingly friendly, right down to the tauts selling cups of tea. No hasseling, no strange male-weirdness because we were women or because we were Americans - we felt safe and we felt welcomed.
istanbul is located on 3 penninsulas surrounded by water - the western side is European, the eastern side is Asian. We stayed on the northwestern penninsula (Beyoğlu) near Taksim Square and the Old City is on the southwestern penninsula.
We couchsurfed with Fatih and his two crazy cats -they were entirely too generous! We ate tasty Turkish food at little places Chelsea and I would have never stumbled upon on our own, had great breakfast conversations over olives and bread and fresh cheeses, and spent New Years Eve together with Fatih's friends. He is a ridiculously talented Kurdish painter and I loved looking at all of his photo-quality works of art...and discussing which kinds of Gypsies we liked best- ha ha.
Fatih gürbüz ( http://www.fatihgurbuz.com/)
fatih gürbüz ( http://www.fatihgurbuz.com/)
fatih gürbüz ( http://www.fatihgurbuz.com/)
In front of Fatih's apartment.
Overfishing the Golden Horn - fishermen lined the bridge between Galata and The Old City day and night.
The Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) built in the 500's as a Christian church and converted into a mosque during the Ottoman Empire in the 1500's.
Outstanding marble - everywhere!
The dome of the Aya Sofya appears like it's hanging because the columns are concealed in the walls. Tallest dome in the world for centuries.
The Christian mosaics originally covering the walls in Aya Sofya were plastered over when it was converted to a mosque instead of destroyed. This mural depictings the ultimate connection between Church & State: Empress Zoe and her husband (she had 3 during this time, Romanus, Micahel IV, and Constantine, and the face in the mural changed as each husband came into power and then died) dealing directly with Jesus.
Turkish Delight - utterly delightlful. If tourists in Charlevoix are called Fudgies, are tourists in istanbul called Turkish Delighties?
The Spice Market in the Old Town.
Delivering the oranges
The Basilica Cistern was built under the Old Town in 532 to store water for the town but forgotten over the centuries. It was rediscovered in 1545 after women found water by lowering buckets through holes in their basements.
The Cemberlitas Hamami (picture - rov.ln), a turkish bath designed by Sinan in 1584. You lay on this heated slab of marble while a matronly Turkish woman scrubs you down from head to toe. New Years Eve treat!
Breakfast at a Lokanta - point and smile (lots of dishes with chickpeas, pilaf, bread, vegetables, and always tea)
...and always tea.
Chelesa and Fatih with the best chicken kebabs I have ever had and it's perfect complement, ayran, a salted and whipped yogurt drink.
Fatih and me
Chelsea and I took the overnight train from istanbul to Sofia, Bulgaria.
An old Easter German sleeper car, the cabin conductor kept the wood fire stoaked at night for warmth.
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